Nate Bui
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Anonymous: Hi Nate, I need your expertise...I recently bought a Schott 618hh 36. I'm about 5-9 with a 36-38 chest, 155pounds. I really like the length of the jacket but did not like how the arm is a bit bigger and not the length i want it to be, its just pass my wrist. I then recently tried on a 626 in small and i really love the way it fit on my arm but was hoping its a bit shorter like the 618. Do you have a recommendation of a different style that has an arm fit of the 626 and length of 618? Thanks

As previously said, a jacket off the rack is usually a raw (as in not broken in) one. You have to give it time and the sleeves will fully form to your arms.

Check out model 519. It’s a cross between the classic Perfectos and the slimmer models.

Anonymous: Hi Nate. I've owned a 613, 626 plus many other Perfecto-copies but I have yet to find my perfect one. The shoulders for ones that fit my chest/waist are always too narrow. The closest to perfection was a size S 626, but again, narrow shoulders and 26" is a bit too long. Was eyeing a 38 613USS but it has alas been discontinued (I carry Schott in my shop). Nice shoulders, fitted/slim 24-25" length, non-quilted lining (satin?). What would you recommend aside from going the custom route?

Leather off the rack will always fit a bit weird. You have to keep in mind that it’s raw and meant to be broken in before you feel comfortable in them. That’s why a lot of brands will use lambskin and lightweight cowhide because they tend to get customers who wear their jackets for fashion and will not commit to breaking leather in.

Look at the new model 519. I think you’ll like it.

post-parsons: Hey Nate, everything I've read about the awesome 613US jacket for the japanese market is that Schott won't release it to the US - period. Seeing as your tailored your own 613 to slim down the sleeves, do you have any knowledge of why this is? Surely there's a group of customers who want a slimmer 613 OTR. I just ordered a 626 a week or so back and am a little anxious about the length

The 613US is a model commissioned by our Japanese distributors to cater specifically to the body type over there. We do not carry it in the US because it’s contracted for them. We just came out with model 519 that will fit approximately the same as the 613 with slimmer sleeves by removing the underarm footballs.

Anonymous: Curious about your height. No offense, but you don't seem like a super tall dude although I could be wrong. You mentioned you prefer the 613 over the 626 because of the overall length. I'm trying to get a 626 but I'm approx. 5'8.5", I'm afraid the jacket will fall beyond the waist which is a deal breaker. Anyways, your height and where did the jacket fall for you above of beyond the waist? Thanks, I'd appreciate it!

I’m 5’10 and a few. My jackets hit just above the belt line (about one inch). My 626 is about an inch and a half under it.

84 days until my quarter century marker. It doesn’t make me any more happier than to dedicate the new era to a cause worth helping. I’m fundraising $2500 until June 23rd. As a special reward to the good soul who donates the most, a free Schott NYC terry cloth popover hoodie (M) will be gifted.

Nate Bui for Outdoor Voices | Soho, NYC.