THAT GUY YOU SEE AROUND TOWN
Nate Bui
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Anonymous: Hey so I just purchased a 519. I see you put pins on all of your jackets. I have some old Army pins similar to yours and was wondering. Does it effect resale value of the jacket a great deal if there are a few pin holes in the collar? I wanna put them on but I'm kinda scared cause how much I spent on the jacket.

If you’re planning on reselling it brand new then yes. Most buyers want vintage broken-in models anyway. It will leave holes. It’s your prerogative.

Anonymous: Hi Nate, you seem to be the guy who knows his schott jackets so maybe you can help me out. I'm looking into getting the 519 but not sure what size to get. I know for a fact I am somewhere between a small and medium. I am about 5'9 with 40 inch chest and a 31 in the waist. I contacted jerri at schott and she recommended I go with a medium however since I know for a fact I am 38 in the 118 and once tried on a 626 in medium which was to much in the waist, I am a little skeptical. Any help is good!

I would recommend a Medium based on your chest size. You won’t be able to zip the jacket up with a Small. The 118 is made a little roomier around the body anyway, so technically the 38 would be (give or take) closer to a Medium in the 519 than a Small.

Anonymous: Hi Nate! What Schott jacket are you wearing in 3sixteen's Style Profile or is it customized since there is no waist belt? I bought the Schott 626 jacket last fall while I was in New York, but Im 5'5" tall so its obvious that its too long for me, but the sleeves are good (still gonna rock it). But what Schott bikerjacket would you recommend for short guy like me? And since Im from Europe, where could I get hands on Schott jackets? Thanks!

I’m wearing the 618 in Brown. The new 519 should fit you perfectly. In terms of where to get our jackets in Europe, the only way to get the US made models is online.

Anonymous: What are your favorite brand of jeans? I'm in the market for a nice pair of summer blue (lighter blue men's) jeans. Possibly distressed, possibly selvedge, possibly, possibly! Help!

It’s hard for me to recommend a pair of denim without knowing your price range. I am also highly against a pre-distressed denim unless it’s been worn by someone. Very few brands get the real wearer’s look when it comes down to it. I prefer breaking in a raw pair especially in the summer because you’re more active. So assuming you’re in for something that will last:

3sixteen ST-101X (Slim Tapered) Lightweight Selvedge 

Pure Blue Japan - XX-013JP Mid Rise Slim Tapered 

Imogene + Willie - Barton Rigid

Anonymous: Hi Nate, I see you recommending the new Schott 519 a lot recently but haven't been able to find much info on it. I was going to order a 626 in a small but was worried about the length as I'm only 5'7. Would a small 519 be comparable to a small 626 but shorter? I usually wear between a small and a medium, between 36 and 38 in suit jackets. Medium Japanese clothing actually fits me really well. Thanks!

You should be fine in the 519 (S). The 626 will be a long on you.

Anonymous: Hi Nate, I was hoping you would be able to give me some advise on a Schott jacket. I currently live in the UK so am unable to try any on as there isn't a perfecto dealer :( At the moment I have a x-small per2 which I am looking to replace with a 613. The per2 is currently too baggy around my chest and stomach despite buying a size down. I am 6ft and tend to be between a x-small to small depending on the brand. Would you be able to advise what size would fit me? I am thinking a 36? Thanks, Will

Go with a 34. It will fit tight around the body at the beginning but once broken in, it should be just about perfect.

Anonymous: Hi Nate, I need your expertise...I recently bought a Schott 618hh 36. I'm about 5-9 with a 36-38 chest, 155pounds. I really like the length of the jacket but did not like how the arm is a bit bigger and not the length i want it to be, its just pass my wrist. I then recently tried on a 626 in small and i really love the way it fit on my arm but was hoping its a bit shorter like the 618. Do you have a recommendation of a different style that has an arm fit of the 626 and length of 618? Thanks

As previously said, a jacket off the rack is usually a raw (as in not broken in) one. You have to give it time and the sleeves will fully form to your arms.

Check out model 519. It’s a cross between the classic Perfectos and the slimmer models.

Anonymous: Hi Nate. I've owned a 613, 626 plus many other Perfecto-copies but I have yet to find my perfect one. The shoulders for ones that fit my chest/waist are always too narrow. The closest to perfection was a size S 626, but again, narrow shoulders and 26" is a bit too long. Was eyeing a 38 613USS but it has alas been discontinued (I carry Schott in my shop). Nice shoulders, fitted/slim 24-25" length, non-quilted lining (satin?). What would you recommend aside from going the custom route?

Leather off the rack will always fit a bit weird. You have to keep in mind that it’s raw and meant to be broken in before you feel comfortable in them. That’s why a lot of brands will use lambskin and lightweight cowhide because they tend to get customers who wear their jackets for fashion and will not commit to breaking leather in.

Look at the new model 519. I think you’ll like it.

post-parsons: Hey Nate, everything I've read about the awesome 613US jacket for the japanese market is that Schott won't release it to the US - period. Seeing as your tailored your own 613 to slim down the sleeves, do you have any knowledge of why this is? Surely there's a group of customers who want a slimmer 613 OTR. I just ordered a 626 a week or so back and am a little anxious about the length

The 613US is a model commissioned by our Japanese distributors to cater specifically to the body type over there. We do not carry it in the US because it’s contracted for them. We just came out with model 519 that will fit approximately the same as the 613 with slimmer sleeves by removing the underarm footballs.

Anonymous: Curious about your height. No offense, but you don't seem like a super tall dude although I could be wrong. You mentioned you prefer the 613 over the 626 because of the overall length. I'm trying to get a 626 but I'm approx. 5'8.5", I'm afraid the jacket will fall beyond the waist which is a deal breaker. Anyways, your height and where did the jacket fall for you above of beyond the waist? Thanks, I'd appreciate it!

I’m 5’10 and a few. My jackets hit just above the belt line (about one inch). My 626 is about an inch and a half under it.

84 days until my quarter century marker. It doesn’t make me any more happier than to dedicate the new era to a cause worth helping. I’m fundraising $2500 until June 23rd. As a special reward to the good soul who donates the most, a free Schott NYC terry cloth popover hoodie (M) will be gifted.

my.charitywater.org/quarter-life
Kerouac.